June 4, 2017 was the date of our first wedding anniversary. It is hard to believe that it’s been a year. It feels like just yesterday we were arriving in Abuja settling into our new life as husband and wife. But 365 days later and ten countries visited during our first year of marriage, we are moving into year two of #Shentell. We wanted to share our wedding video to celebrate our first anniversary and to thank all our family and friends that in some way contributed to our wedding. No matter how small your contribution, we are forever grateful for your love and kindness that was showered on us last year. We were also moved by all the family and friends that traveled across oceans, continents and between countries to join us for our wedding. People traveled from the US, the UK, Serbia, Nigeria, South Sudan, Uganda, Kenya and Thailand (hopefully we didn’t forget a country…we ask for grace if we did!) and from many parts of Rwanda.
In addition, we wanted to thank family and friends who have encouraged us over the past year. We have received countless messages and gifts, hosted in numerous homes for dinner (and sometimes for sleep overs) and received numerous runs to and from the airport. We thank each and every one of you and thank God for bringing you into our lives.
There is an episode of the Cosby show where Vanessa Huxtable blames her parents for being rich after being harassed at school for being a rich girl. It’s a funny episode because Clare and Cliff tell Vanessa that if anyone is rich, it’s them and not her. This episode recently flashed through my mind as I was in a government building in Nigeria looking for a toilet.
“Oh to be an American living in Nigeria!” I sometimes feel that my upbringing in the United States has left me disadvantaged living in Nigeria as an American. My expectations for basic things are exceptionally high which often leads to frustration and disappointment when I’m trying to get simple things done. But the lack of toilets, especially in a government building with hundreds of employees is downright disappointing (and disgusting). I had to ask 5 security officers before finding a toilet. It made me think, where do people go to the toilet?
I recently had the strangest conversation with my driver. The topic was public urination and the conversation started because I read an article on BBC.com that the city of San Francisco, in an effort to address the issue of public urination around night clubs and bars, is planning to use a special paint that redirects urine back onto the person. This, the city hopes, will stop public urination. The idea came from a city in Germany which has been using the paint for a few years to combat public urination around bars.
Nigeria has a significant problem with public urination and public defecation. Water and sanitation is a problem that is being addressed by numerous NGOs and other health related organizations. Most foreign nationals in Nigeria are surprised by the lack of facilities and the overwhelming number of people “relieving” themselves on the side of the road or along walled compounds. You often see signs that read, “No urination here.” And the most significant problem (to me) is that when people do “relieve” themselves, there is no desire to seek cover. People visiting Nigeria from all over the world, including parts of the world where public urination is common are surprised how out in the open it is in Nigeria. It truly catches you off guard. Recently, Sheila and I were out walking through the neighborhood when a car pulled over and two men exited the car. At first, we didn’t think much about them. They were walking along chatting toward us. Eventually they stopped, began to unzip their trousers and allowed nature to do its course. Now, before I go on, I have no problem with a man (or woman for that matter) seeking the cover of trees, walls or whatever to “make themselves comfortable.” But to stop on the edge of the sidewalk, remove your “junk” and let the water flow in front of my wife, then I have a problem.
According to WaterAid, an international NGO working to improve water and sanitation in Africa’s largest country, many areas throughout the country, don’t have access to proper sewer systems. The organization estimates that over 130 million people don’t have access to proper sewer systems. Just imagine, the entire Southern region of the U.S. without proper sanitation (many of my “Northern” friends already think that is the case). That is what the situation looks like here in Nigeria. Which explains why people relieve themselves on the side of the road. But you never get comfortable watching men and women “conduct their business” on the side of the road and in broad daylight. Again, I am not trying to judge but it’s difficult removing these American lenses that I see the world through…its just who I am…
For the past three years, I have been searching for why Nigeria is the way it is. And honestly, despite the fact that all Nigerians say they know what’s wrong with Nigeria, it’s hard to put your finger on it. But one issue in particular that has given me numerous headaches is the issue of trust. Trust is nonexistent in Nigeria. The people don’t trust the government, employers don’t trust employees, business people don’t trust customers and so on. For a person that comes from a country built on trust, it’s difficult at times getting anything done.
I experience this lack of trust virtually everywhere. Among my staff, in retail stores and shops and even in church. Which is why a Nigerian friend once told me that “We don’t even trust God in this country!” Which is a crazy statement based on the fact that Nigeria is one of the most religious countries in the world, evenly split between Christians and Muslims. Churches clog roads on Sundays and the Mosques basically shuts down Abuja at 1:00pm on Fridays.
When I arrived in Nigeria I attended a mega church that had a very complex parking situation. The parking situation is made even more difficult because most drivers didn’t follow the instructions of the parking attendant. They often ignored the parking attendant and made their own parking space. When I would inquire why the driver was not following the instructions of the parking attendant, I was told that “the parking attendant didn’t know what he was doing.”
For an American, our society is based on trust. Most Americans don’t live in gated compounds and many of us have access to instant loans when we are in the supermarket or any retail store – credit cards. We buy homes with 30 year mortgages and purchase cars with low interest car loans. If you don’t finish paying off your loans, the financial institution has a way of recovering the money.
Trust in government and institutions are key for the future success of any country, including Nigeria. Extending credit is essential to helping citizens buy homes, cars and other important items. But this also requires governments to develop schemes and programs for minimizing uncertainty during difficult economic times.
Because Nigeria lacks the programs to keep citizens above water during times of hardship, Nigeria is always teetering on the brink. Former US Ambassador described it as “Dancing on the Brink.” Sadly, 90 percent of Nigerian citizens are always dancing on the brink of disaster. They are always one step away from a financial disaster that will wipe out savings and redirect their future. It’s unfortunate but this is the country that they inherited from their forefathers. I only wish that government leaders in Nigeria would work on building trust among its citizens and putting mechanisms in place to protect them from corruption.
I’m sure you know the rest. But I’m not sure how taking off all my clothes will make the situation better in Nigeria. It will probably provide some relief from the heat but make me more susceptible to Malaria and other mosquito borne diseases.
These are difficult times in Nigeria!…The President of Nigeria was recently out of the country recuperating from illness in London (he returned to Nigeria over the weekend but will need to travel back to London in three weeks), the death throes of the dry season have driven the daytime temps to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit and the Abuja International Airport closed last Wednesday for a six-week rehabilitation. Not to mention that the country is in one of the worst recessions it has ever faced and the inflation rate is near 20%. People in Nigeria are suffering, which makes it really difficult for me to complain about the heat and the airport closure.
To the international community, the airport closure is big deal. To the average Nigerian, the inconvenience is daily life. For months, we have been in security meetings, donor discussions and all out panic that one of the most important lifelines to Nigeria was closing for repairs. The Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport is the second busiest airport in the country behind Lagos and from the tiny Capital city airport, you can escape to other parts of Africa and Europe. For Sheila and I, the closure feels like a forced stay-cation because we have no desire to trek down to Lagos to catch an international flight. We did that a few weeks ago when we went to Dubai and discovered that the trip adds a lot of undue stress on your body (and your heart).
Why is the airport closed? You might ask…The Nigerian government closed the international airport because the runway has fallen into disrepair and international carriers like British Airways and Lufthansa had threatened to leave if the runway was not repaired. Reports have stated that the runway, designed to last for 20 years has been in use for 34 years…14 years passed its expiration. The government closed the airport in 2014 on a few Sundays in July to make necessary repairs to the runway. The closure forced me to travel nearly 8 hours by road to Abuja after an event in Southwest Nigeria. This time, the closure will force me to remain in Nigeria for six weeks with very few options of taking an Easter Break.
Abuja flights are being re-routed through Kaduna, a city about 200 kilometers north of Abuja. The Kaduna expressway that takes travelers from Kaduna to Abuja is full of potholes and sporadic violence. A few weeks ago, two German archeologists were kidnapped along the Kaduna expressway as they were conducting excavations of a local culture. No one was injured and the Germans were eventually released a few days later. However, situations like this have contributed to the hysteria that has surrounded the airport closure. Sadly, now that the airport is closed, all we can do is wait and see what happens and how Nigeria will respond to another unnecessary crisis. As Nigerians say, “It is well-ooooh.”
Now, I feel bad complaining about the current heat wave in Nigeria. It makes me sound like a spoilt American or a one percenter…but I’m sorry, the heat that has blanketed Abuja has been down right difficult to embrace. I realized as I was complaining about the heat and how the power supply has been up and down that I blogged about this very issue last year. The weeks leading to the start of the raining season are usually the hottest on record. And this year is no different. This is my third dry season in Nigeria and I still struggle to cope with the heat. But I have found some relief to the heat…the swimming pool on my compound. Did I say one percenter?…
As usual, I have another story of traveling in Nigeria. It started with a delayed flight from Abuja (from 12:10pm to 1:40pm), a race between the domestic terminal and the international terminal in Lagos to catch our next flight and a small “tip” (that’s what I’m calling it) to ensure we caught our Emirates flight on time. All in all, it was probably one of the most stressful departures I have experienced in Nigeria (even both Christmas departures) …and it happen in the third degree of hell…better known as Murtala Mohammed International Airport in Lagos.
But that is not what this blog is about. This blog is about Jacob Mach. If you are an avid reader of my blog, then you might remember a blog I wrote in 2014 about Jacob Mach. Rome Wasn’t Built in a Day…it was built in two
In January, 2014, I ran across a video on the New York Times website that profiled the trials of Jacob Mach. Jacob was one of the “Lost Boys of Sudan”, a group of boys who were displaced during the Sudanese civil war. Thousands of Sudan’s “Lost Boys” were settled across the United States. In 2013, Mach was interviewed by the NY Times for a profile about the lost boys. At that time, he was putting all of his energy into becoming an Atlanta Police Officer. Sadly, he did pass the basic training required to be a police officer. However, because of his determination and good nature, he was hired by the Atlanta City government to enforce housing codes. And earlier this year, he got his wish as he passed the police academy basic training and recently started as an Atlanta Police Officer.
His story is such a moving testament to his strength and persistence. He never gave up on his dream and was able to overcome so many challenges from his childhood. Jacob is the face of how the American dream and experience can work to change someone’s life. He once found himself fighting wild animals to stay alive and now he is protecting and serving a community that gave him a new life and new opportunities. Sadly, there are very few positive stories coming out of South Sudan. For months, international organizations have warned that certain areas in the newest country in the world were on the brink of famine. Last week, the United Nations declared a famine in South Sudan. The conflict that started when I living there in 2013 has disrupted farming and food production and forced people to flee the country. Nearly two million people have been displaced because of the conflict and tens of thousands killed. The stories that I hear and read coming out of South Sudan are so bad that most times, I am able to get to the end of the article without shedding a few tears.
Jacob’s story (and the stories of other “Lost Boys”) is a testament to the overcoming nature of the human spirit. However, the carnage at home is a reminder that South Sudan faces a long tough journey to stability and prosperity.
*Picture was taken from WABE 90.1 (http://news.wabe.org/post/refugees-story-lost-boy-sudan-apd-officer)
Note to reader: This blog is not about an airport…however, I hope it brings the same comedic relief as my airport stories!
We found Cyprus to be an amazing place! To really appreciate the island, you need a car to explore the many ruins and castle that dot the mountainside. We found renting a car to be seamless and efficient. Our Atlas Global flight from Istanbul was two hours late arriving but the rent car official waited patiently for our flight to arrive. We were supposed to land at 11:50pm but arrived at 2:00am. I would highly recommend Pacific Rental if you find yourself in North Cyprus.
Because we had a car, we were always on the move and one particular destination I wanted to visit was the Karpas National Park and the Cape, which marked the end of the island. So on Monday, January 2, we embarked on what we thought would be a two-hour car ride. The trip was progressing smoothly until our google navigator lost connection with the satellite and we missed an important turn. At first she recalculated and told us we would arrive 15 minutes after our original time. However, we found ourselves deep in a rural Cypriot town. At one point, we found ourselves driving down a road in the middle of an olive grove. It should have been at that point that we reassessed the situation and found a new way out. However, we continued along the highlighted route.
There is a great episode of The Office that makes fun of following the GPS. In this particular episode, Michael, the Regional Manager, drives the car into a pond because he believes that the GPS is telling him to take a right. While our car didn’t end up in a pond, it ended up in the second worst thing…mud! The Office GPS Episode (YouTube)
We came to a cemetery in the town of Sazlikoy. Once past the cemetery, the paved road turned into a muddy, pothole ridden road. When we approached the road, I initially told myself to find an alternative route because I have watched too many movies where small cars are bogged down in mud. I kept thinking, the last thing I want to do is get stuck in a random Cypriot town where probably no one speaks English.
The mud should have been our indication to turn back and find an alternative route. To give ourselves credit, we discussed the situation for several minutes. There was a back and forth of what to do and whether to turn back. Sadly, we convinced ourselves to power forward in the smallest car in the world. And into the mud we went. My last words were…”Ah, Sheila, I really don’t want to get stuck.”
And just as expected, the car leaped into the mud and settled in for the long haul. And we were stuck. I was so furious that I thought this tiny little car could barrel its way through the mud with no problems. At one point I had to calm myself because I was starting to overheat. I knew that the only way we were going to get out of this muddier predicament was to get out and push. I wasn’t initially gun ho about this idea but Sheila kept chiming in that we should get out. Now it’s important to note that while the day was sunny and mild, it was still winter and putting my foot in muddy water was not how I saw the day planning out. I decided to get out and push with Sheila manning the driver’s seat.
So out I went into the mud and began pushing the car with Sheila following my commands to steer the car out of the mud. Luckily for the us, this small car was easy to rock back and forth. At one point, I thought that I should push from the front. But I was concerned in all my commands that maybe the car was in drive and Sheila would run me over. And in all the excitement and panic, she would overreach and continue to press me in the mud. There is a funny video that we have with me asking “is it in “R”? and making an R in the air. The whole ordeal took us about 15 minutes and only a few splashes of mud on my clothes. However, my feet were caked in mud.
It was an awful ordeal as it was not how I wanted to spend our day in the Cyprus country side but it has given us a hilarious detour on our vacation…one that brings us to laugh each time we think about it and watch the video.
It turns out that we never made it to the cape and the donkeys. We took the northern route that actually led us to more mud (where Sheila demanded that we turn around and not continue on) and a few cool Byzantine churches. The Cape and donkeys were on the southern route through the Karpas National Park. In the end, we witnessed an amazing sunset along the north coast of the island and discovered the Ayios Philon ruins. The church of Ayios Philon was reconstructed in the 10th century on the foundations of an earlier 5th basilica. The Byzantine church was abandoned in the 8th century because of the constant Arab raids, but was rebuilt at the turn of the millennia.
The day was a reminder that life is not about the destination but about the journey…and oh what a journey we had that day.
We finally arrived in Lagos…surprising only three hours late. However, there was no place to park the plane so they took us to the Arik Hanger to exit the plane. We stood on the tarmac for about 15 minutes before the buses arrived. We were whisked away to the terminal and our Arik adventure came to an end.
There is an article in the BBC on the state of air travel in Nigeria. My favorite highlights from the article include…
“Customer service at Arik Air is at times non-existent. When the airline cancels a flight, most of the time its ground staff flee rather than deal with the fallout from irate passengers.” I would say that all times customer service is no existent! On our return flight, we arrived three house early in hopes of catching an earlier flight. We were told at the service counter that the 6pm flight was canceled and people were being rebooked on the 3:00pm flight. There was no text message, call or email about our canceled flight!
“First, find the most reliable airline and stick with it. And, if possible, take the first flight in the morning as it’s normally guaranteed to go on time (give or take an hour.) Delays become compounded throughout the day as most airlines operate a shuttle service. So a good bet is that a mid-afternoon flight will probably turn into early evening flight. Passengers normally only miss their flight if it actually leaves on time.”
He ends the article with a few positive things about flying in Nigeria. “There are, however, a few perks about air travel in Nigeria: Free snacks onboard; unbelievably cheap excess baggage and the fact that you can board with as much carry-on luggage as you can actually carry on.”
While all this may be true, I would like him to know that most African airlines provide free snacks and offer discount excess baggage fees. But I guess it is good to look at the bright side!
Well hello friends! It’s me! I’m once again stuck in a Nigerian airport. I actually thought that I would have a smooth flight to Lagos to attend a program in Ibadan, Nigeria. But if you have ever read any of my blog posts, then you know that flights in Nigeria are notorious for being late, delayed and often times canceled. The state of the largest carrier was (is) in such a bad state that a government management company had to step in and rescue it from potential disaster. Did I say that is the airline I’m flying to Lagos.
The talk of the town for the past three months has been the closure of the Abuja Airport. The state of the runway is in such bad shape that international airlines are refusing to fly to the capital city. Abuja is the largest airport behind Lagos and would lose an estimated revenue of over $6 million from international carriers and domestic operations when the airport shutsdown. Foreign airlines that currently operate to the Abuja airport include Egypt Air, Air France, British Airways, Ethiopia Airlines, Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa and South Africa Airways. The Nigerian government has proposed to divert planes to Kaduna, a city about 140 miles (225 kilometers) away, during the six-week closure. All of the above mentioned airlines have stated that they will not be landing in Kaduna.
So March 8th is the official start of our #Staycation2017! We will be blogging each week about a new restaurant, city or attraction that we experience in Nigeria. Since the security situation has calmed down, we are planning to explore the land of green and white.
Well thanks for reading and back to my wait…so far, the delay has been 2 hours. Let’s hope it ends soon.
The plane was boarded as people were coming off the plane…ridiculous!
As you read in the previous blog, Sheila and I were planning to go to Thailand, Cambodia and Singapore for Christmas and New Year’s. But my delay in purchasing our plane tickets and the fact that our friends would not be Bangkok forced us to find a new location for our New Year’s holiday. Because we were up against such a short deadline, we had to find a location that did not require Sheila to apply for a visa. That limited our options but thanks to some “friends” (I use that word very loosely) on YouTube, we found a hidden gem in the Mediterranean Sea.
Before I reveal our New Year’s destination, I need to introduce you to my YouTube friends – Kara and Nate (Click the link to watch their video) I ran across Kara and Nate as I was researching ideas for our holiday vacation to Thailand and Cambodia. I was looking for information on Angkor Wat, a temple complex in northern Cambodia on the UNESCO World Heritage List when I ran across their sunrise visit to Angkor Wat. I immediately started following Kara and Nate and watching their videos. I found kindred spirits as we are both from the south (I’m from Alabama and they are from Tennessee) and love traveling the world. Nate and Kara decided to travel around the world so last January, the two left the United States and began a year that included visits to some amazing places on this planet. They have hundreds of videos on their YouTube channel of their experiences in over 30 countries, including Thailand and Cambodia. However, one of the videos caught my attention and led Sheila and I to the island of Cyprus.
I am sure that most of you have heard of Cyprus. As a Christian, I had read about Paul and Barnabas’s mission to Cyprus and in 2008, I was in a fellowship with a Cypriot. Through my Cypriot friend, I learned that the island was divided into the Republic of Cyprus (the southern part of the island) that is allied with Greece and the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus that is allied with…Turkey! The Republic of Cyprus is a member of the EU and requires Sheila to obtain a Schengen visa to enter. North Cyprus, which again is affiliated with Turkey required Sheila to have a U.S. or U.K. visa. While our last minute flights were a bit expense, once we landed in North Cyprus, the region was very inexpensive. We were able to get hotel rooms for between $50-90 a night and a rental car for five days for only $90. Food cost ranged between $5 for a Turkish doner to $15 for an all-you-can-eat buffet at one of the island’s five-star resorts. Pastries, fruit and cheese were abundant in North Cyprus. We stopped at a farmer’s market to buy fruit and was shocked by the cheap price of fruits and vegetables. A kilo of oranges was only 1.75 Turkish Lira, about 46 cents. CRAZY! However, it is important to note that orange trees were everywhere on the island. The only downside to traveling in December was the inconsistent weather patterns. In the morning, the sun would be bright and high in the sky but by 1:00pm, the clouds would roll in and a brief rain shower would occur. However, by 3 or 4:00pm, the sun would reemerge. Sheila and I tried to make the best of an unpredictable situation.
North Cyprus has beaches, castle ruins, monasteries, cathedrals that were turned into mosque and a mountain chain that runs the length of the island. Driving around the island was like driving through a painted landscape of sandy hills and crashing waves. We were stopping every few miles to snap photos of the surrounding area.
Driving in Cyprus requires a bit of patience and attention. As we Americans say, Cypriots drive on the wrong side of the road (or to state correctly, they drive on the right side of the road). Driving on the right side requires undivided attention because as a left seated driver, I tend to drift to the left and become too close to the end of the road. Not comforting for Sheila (the passenger) when climbing windy roads in the Kyrenia Mountains. And there was that one time when we thought a tour bus was going to take us out on the road to St. Hilarion Castle. When we look back at the video, the situation wasn’t so dramatic but in the moment, we really thought the tour bus was on a collision course with our car. You can hear me in the video yelling NOOO…as the bus approached us. (Check out the video) But this wouldn’t be the last time that we found ourselves in a predicament in our tiny Ford Fiesta…the trip to Cyprus turned out to be more exciting then what we were expecting.
The Road to St. Hilarion Castle (the video of our drive to the top of the mountain)
The other day, I was talking with an associate in London and he asked what I was doing for Christmas. I responded, “I’ll be spending Christmas with the in-laws in Kigali, Rwanda.” He chuckled and said, “boy, you really have become a global citizen!” It is true, my life has taken on a very international flare. While I always joke with my wife that I grew up in a small “village” in the American South and I am a fiercely proud American, I recognize that my sphere of influence has grown to include a very global network. I was thinking on the flight to Kigali last month that I have only spent one Christmas in Alabama since moving to South Sudan in 2013. I spent two Christmases in Germany (2013 and 2014), one in Alabama (2015) and this year in Rwanda (2016). We were supposed to be in Bangkok this year but our friends (who once lived in Germany) were back in the US for the holiday season so we rearranged our travel plans and headed to Kigali.
To me, Christmas is all about family, so the first Christmas I spent away from Alabama was very difficult. Each year when I was living in the US, I would make the journey back to Mount Vernon, Alabama to open gifts with my parents and visit with relatives. We would also find time during the week to break out competitive nature by playing board games or a new card game I had just learned. This was Christmas to me, spending time with loved ones. While I didn’t get to go to the US in 2013 and 2014, I spent Christmas with extended family – the Goods.
Reliving our childhood by doing kartwheels in Kigali.
Last year, Sheila spent Christmas with my family in Alabama. I tried to tell her that on Christmas Day we mostly spend the day at home enjoying each other’s company and playing games. She was mystified that we didn’t go to church on Christmas Day. Honestly I can count on one hand the number of times I have been to Church on Christmas Day, and that was because Christmas fell on a Sunday.
Christmas 2015 in Alabama
I didn’t know what to expect with Christmas in Rwanda. At first I was amazed how the country operated like it was on any other Sunday. Shops were open and restaurants were filled with people. We went to church and had a nice lunch with Sheila’s family. After lunch we took a few Christmas pictures in our Sunday best and relaxed by doing cartwheels in the yard. By late afternoon we all went our separate ways, I found a cozy spot in the front yard to read my book, Sheila was helping her mom in the house and her brother went down for an afternoon siesta. In the evening, we played tourist in Kigali by checking out the new Radisson Hotel and the very colorful convention center. We finished our Christmas Day with a spontaneous date night at one of the new restaurants in Kigali. It was the start of our own Christmas traditions.
I agree with my London colleague; I have become a citizen of the world. The traditions I once held so tightly have become a thing of the past. Sheila and I are now making new traditions to celebrate holidays, both American and Rwandan and even sometimes Nigerian. Who knows were we will be next Christmas…only time will tell…